This is my favorite genre of restaurant, mainly because it's nice to actually have a prayer of getting a reservation. I adore Lure and Gramercy Tavern. In Brooklyn I would add Insa, Misi, Vinegar Hill House, Sawa, and Inga's to the list. Also Libertine in Manhattan!
Great point about the getting in vs. notify nature of these places. Sometimes you just want to walk in. Love this list from my old Brooklyn neighborhood. Vinegar Hill House is a legend.
Well-said. Great topic and stellar lists. Follow-up questions: At what point does a middle-aged restaurant become an institution? After a decade? 20 years? And what does a middle-aged restaurant become if not an institution? A classic? Tired? Retired?
Great questions about timelines. Hard to say. For NYC, I feel if a restaurant can host a packed, joyous, optimistic 10 year anniversary party, they have passed middle age into classic - either neighborhood or city wide love. Institution is after 20 years. Pizza shops, takeouts, and counter-service only places fall into the same categories. Retired = closed. Otherwise, they are classics.
Great point. Now, would the media outlets or awards organizations be willing to add an award category for restaurants in the 10-20-year-old range (or something like that)? That would sure help.
Great point - I’ll say Resy editorial has done a great job covering 3-10 year old restaurants (and not just Resy places). NYT top 100 covers a range too. There needs to be more coverage no doubt.
You’re right, those top 100 lists. L.A. has those with the LA Times and Eater allows for that kind of recognition in its “essential L.A. restaurants” lists.
Thanks for giving "middle-aged" restaurants some thought. I tend to visit these places more often than the newbies. Restaurants that hit 20+ become more stable "classics," like Chicago's Lula Cafe, avec, and Chef Rick Bayless's spots. Just a few of our middle-aged restaurants that always deliver include Big Jones, Galit, Cellar Door Provisions, Table Donkey & Stick, Demera, and many more. The throughline (in my opinion) of all these lasting restaurants is how they make guests feel. The food continues to be outstanding, but it's the service and how you feel that keeps drawing folks back.
Martin, this is such a good Chicago list and Cellar Door Provisions is just what I’m writing about. I am sure it totally hits these days, and likely better. Thanks for sharing.
Yes to the “middle-aged” restaurant (and, dare I say, some of these may even qualify as “old(er)-aged”)! Have eaten at both Estela and Gjelina in the past year and both were at the top of their game IMO. A bit like revisiting an older or even classic novel over the latest buzzy fiction. Both can be good - both can coexist - both worth your time. Loved this episode of your podcast Matt.
Thanks Janet - def agree that returning to a trusted restaurant is like picking up the Lord of the Rings trilogy for the 4th time. You just know what you are going to get - and the getting is good.
This is my favorite genre of restaurant, mainly because it's nice to actually have a prayer of getting a reservation. I adore Lure and Gramercy Tavern. In Brooklyn I would add Insa, Misi, Vinegar Hill House, Sawa, and Inga's to the list. Also Libertine in Manhattan!
Great point about the getting in vs. notify nature of these places. Sometimes you just want to walk in. Love this list from my old Brooklyn neighborhood. Vinegar Hill House is a legend.
Well-said. Great topic and stellar lists. Follow-up questions: At what point does a middle-aged restaurant become an institution? After a decade? 20 years? And what does a middle-aged restaurant become if not an institution? A classic? Tired? Retired?
Great questions about timelines. Hard to say. For NYC, I feel if a restaurant can host a packed, joyous, optimistic 10 year anniversary party, they have passed middle age into classic - either neighborhood or city wide love. Institution is after 20 years. Pizza shops, takeouts, and counter-service only places fall into the same categories. Retired = closed. Otherwise, they are classics.
Was just having this conversation over the weekend with someone who races to get hot bookings the second they open! Such a great topic.
Great point. Now, would the media outlets or awards organizations be willing to add an award category for restaurants in the 10-20-year-old range (or something like that)? That would sure help.
Great point - I’ll say Resy editorial has done a great job covering 3-10 year old restaurants (and not just Resy places). NYT top 100 covers a range too. There needs to be more coverage no doubt.
You’re right, those top 100 lists. L.A. has those with the LA Times and Eater allows for that kind of recognition in its “essential L.A. restaurants” lists.
Thanks for giving "middle-aged" restaurants some thought. I tend to visit these places more often than the newbies. Restaurants that hit 20+ become more stable "classics," like Chicago's Lula Cafe, avec, and Chef Rick Bayless's spots. Just a few of our middle-aged restaurants that always deliver include Big Jones, Galit, Cellar Door Provisions, Table Donkey & Stick, Demera, and many more. The throughline (in my opinion) of all these lasting restaurants is how they make guests feel. The food continues to be outstanding, but it's the service and how you feel that keeps drawing folks back.
Martin, this is such a good Chicago list and Cellar Door Provisions is just what I’m writing about. I am sure it totally hits these days, and likely better. Thanks for sharing.
Yes to the “middle-aged” restaurant (and, dare I say, some of these may even qualify as “old(er)-aged”)! Have eaten at both Estela and Gjelina in the past year and both were at the top of their game IMO. A bit like revisiting an older or even classic novel over the latest buzzy fiction. Both can be good - both can coexist - both worth your time. Loved this episode of your podcast Matt.
Thanks Janet - def agree that returning to a trusted restaurant is like picking up the Lord of the Rings trilogy for the 4th time. You just know what you are going to get - and the getting is good.
Great LA list but these are known and common on everyone’s list. There are many not as well known but impactful left off.
Well these are the ones I’ve been to - care to add?